Trip to Holland 2007

It all started with a ‘phone call on the evening of Saturday June 16th. We were invited by Paul to join him and the rest of the “Oulton Gang” on a trip to Holland the following week-end. As we were going to cruise to Oulton the next day anyway, he said, “think about it and let us know tomorrow”. At our meeting on Sunday we accepted the invitation only to be told we were departing from Oulton Broad at 0830 on the following Friday morning. The next few days were hectic, as we had to cancel or rearrange appointments etc. for the next two weeks.

On Friday morning we arrived at Oulton Broad at 0750 with a carload of kit, which we transferred onto Paul’s Fairline Targa 36. Also going with us were two Broom 39s and a Broom 37. By 0830 everyone was ready to enter Mutford Lock except the lock keeper; he arrived at 0845 and we locked through, only to be advised that the railway bridge was out of action and also the bascule bridge at Lowestoft was not working. This led to the rapid lowering of radar arches and questions as to whether there would be enough clearance, although it was low tide. We all got through with inches to spare and, radar arches back up, departed Lowestoft harbour at 0948 with an overcast sky and a S.E. wind at F3-4. After the initial swell for the first hour it gradually settled into a good crossing, steering due east. Little traffic was seen until about 20 miles off Ijmuiden when we started to cross the deepwater channel. We arrived at the entrance to Ijmuiden in glorious sunshine, wind F2 at 1702, having covered 102nm.

After some difficulty, we found the lock into the North Sea Canal, which would take us to Amsterdam, and we locked through with other small craft and a 2000-ton barge!

We departed Ijmuiden lock at 1754 and had our first glimpse of how busy the Continental waterways are. The weather now decided to be very nasty and for the first time since leaving the UK we had to go and helm from down below. The sky was jet black with lightening and thunder making it difficult to see our way, what with shipping, barges, ferries and high speed hydrofoils, to avoid it made our job keeping a lookout quite difficult.

As Colin in the Broom 37 had been to Amsterdam before, he knew where to look for the marina so he was first in and, having made contact with the Harbour Master, directed us in. It was raining hard and blowing a stiff breeze, having to negotiate the narrow sharp bend at the entrance, and then turn hard aport into a berth, we all made it safely by 1930. We were now in Sixhaven Marina opposite Amsterdam Central Station.

On Saturday we took the ferry (free) across the North Sea Canal to Amsterdam. As it was raining hard, we jumped on a covered trip boat for a tour round the canals, which are narrow, pretty and numerous. After lunch the sun came out and a stroll to the Red Light district was on the cards, which also gave us the chance to see other parts of this beautiful city with its thousands of bicycles everywhere.

At 1000 on Sunday we departed Amsterdam for Marken, passing, once again, through a massive lock and steered N.E.by N. into the Ijmeer which leads into the Markeermeer. It was cloudy with a south- westerly F4-5. We arrived at Marken at 1220, being assisted by the helpful Harbourmaster. A walk round Marken in the rain was enjoyable as this is a very pretty unspoilt typical Dutch village, only connected to the mainland in 1957. A quayside restaurant was booked for the evening and we were well entertained by the local lifeboat skipper who was also the drummer for a local group, so the evening ended with some lively singing and dancing, much to the amusement of the locals, who could not believe we were English!

Monday was overcast F4 and a south- west to west, which was to last all holiday, as we made our departure at 0935 for Enkhuizen, N.N.E. up the Markermeer. The waters on these Meers are fairly shallow, about 2 meters on average, so this leads to a short choppy sea. We found the lock easily as the control room is a flying saucer shape on top of a column so could be seen from a distance. After locking through, we had a choice of Marinas and fortunately, at the entrance to the one we chose, we saw a fuel lorry, and the driver, after a bit of persuasion, agreed to fill up all the boats. We then rafted up two abreast on the other side of the Marina and took a walk to the street market. It ought to be streets market as it lined the narrow streets alongside the canals in Enkhuizen and we managed to dodge the heavy showers. As it was blowing F8 the next day, we visited the Outdoor Museum, being taken there by free ferry from the Marina. This gave us a chance to see how the Dutch lived many years ago and how they earned a living, all recreated in this village made up of buildings rescued from other old villages and restored. A very good Chinese meal was enjoyed in the evening.

Wednesday dawned bright and breezy F3-4 and the decision was made to head across the Ijsselmeer to Lemmer, N.E. by E.. So we departed at 0950 and found that it was F5-6 outside so it was a rough crossing but at least the sun came out. We arrived at 1110 and found a mooring in the centre of the town where it remained windy and sunny. As with a lot of Dutch towns moorings are available at the side of the road with electric and water laid on, and in the evening the Harbourmaster cycles round to collect the modest mooring fee. Here we found a laundrette, although normally doing a daily service, they agreed to do our washing in the afternoon. It was dried and folded ready for us at 1600. What service! Just beyond our mooring was a lift bridge and as this was a very busy narrow canal linking the Ijsselmeer with the Prinses Margriet Kanaal it was amazing how quickly it let the boats through, sometimes lifting every 5 minutes. This was to be our route the next day, and although it was F4-5, it was sunny and cool and we departed at 0950 on our way to Sneek at N. by W.

This canal runs north through flat farmland and well-buoyed lakes which we shared with a lot of barge traffic and dredgers. We arrived at Sneek at 1225 and as it was the Bridgman’s lunch break we found moorings by a block of apartments, again all provided with water and electric points. A good walk to the town and beyond was enjoyed by some. In the evening the ladies played cards on board while the men sought out a bar in town.

Friday morning was dull with showers F5-6 and we dropped our lines at 0945 and took the route through Sneek, negotiating some bridges and very tight bends to head south to Sloten, which is just N.W. of Lemmer. The wind and rain were really blowing hard across the open farmland and we were glad to moor up at Sloten at 1130. The large empty space we had moored in had two signs, which we could not understand but later found out were moorings for a passenger boat, but due to the bad weather was not running. However we were able to move onto the public moorings later in the day. Sloten is a beautiful medieval village surrounded by small canals with one running through the middle crossed over with small stone bridges which have their arches lit up at night. There is also a thatched windmill in working order. On the edge of the village next to the bank of the main canal was a country show with vintage travellers’ caravans, tractors, old tugs and Dutch sailing vessels. Children drove a couple of the vintage miniature tugs round the narrow canals through the village. The next day, to accompany the fair, a street market was held along the banks of the canals and the rain held off and the sun shone long enough for us to stroll round and have a look. In the evening a live band performed in a marquee and I think youngsters from the surrounding villages all turned up until the thunderstorms quietened it all down.

The rain was still continuing next morning when we left for Giethoorn at 0900. Our passage was due east then round to the south for Giethoorn. It turned warm and sunny until we moored at Ossenzijl for lunch in torrential rain at 1200. We then departed at 1315 in warm sun again, looked in at Steenwijk, which was quite industrial, and finally moored up at Giethoorn at 1545. This was our longest inland cruise of the holiday and was worth the effort. Again we were moored near the centre of town with restaurants available over the road. That evening we had the best meal of the holiday with plenty of fresh veg. and a good selection on the menu. We even managed to sit outside in the evening sun and enjoy our sweet course.

Monday morning dawned cloudy with sunshine and showers so we decided to launch the dinghies and take a trip around Giethoorn’s Little Venice. This was a series of small canals running through the edge of the town surrounded by beautiful properties only accessible by boat or foot. A one way system operates on these canals as the local trip boats are very long and narrow and have to reverse to manoeuvre round some of the bends. As we did not have a map we followed these boats and had a very delightful trip, despite being caught in a torrential downpour. After lunch we cast off at 1425 and steered roughly south, making for Zwartsuis, arriving at 1600, again mooring in the town. But not until after the confusion with a very large passenger vessel, about 100 ft. long, which wanted to moor in front of us. The skipper requested the boat in front of us to move; it came alongside of us, and then he brought his stern in at an angle to disembark his passengers. We all thought his vessel would be blown into the other boats still moored but it just stayed where he put it, held in place by hydraulic piles driven into the canal bed. The skipper gave the people who had to move a bottle of wine for their trouble. Amazing what can be done with these large craft. After a look round and a visit to the local chandlers it was fish and chips for some and eating out for others.

Tuesday, again, was cloudy and we left at 1045, having to wait whilst a large barge was manoeuvred out of a dry dock and another one moored up. We all assembled and headed for Elburg. Again heading in a southerly direction. On arriving and going down the canal into the town, there was nowhere to moor four boats together so we carried on, accompanied by thunderstorms and strong winds, and finished up at a holiday park with plenty of space known as Riviera Beach Jachthaven, tying up at 1330. This was a resort on similar lines to Centre Parcs and had areas for caravans, tents and a separate holiday village. Although told the swimming pool opened at 0900 our intrepid swimmers made their way there next morning in the rain to find it closed until 1000. So a decision was made to depart amid thundery showers and a F4 at 1015 going S.W. then W.N.W. down the Veluwe Meer to Almere for our crossing to Amsterdam the next day. The land on our starboard side had all been reclaimed since the Second World War, so nothing was older than 60 years. The passage was quite choppy and on reaching the lock before Almere a terrific thunderstorm broke out, so much so we could not see the traffic signals for the lock, so we waited for the storm to clear a little and entered the lock in torrential rain, even so the lockkeepers gave us assistance. Finally arriving at Almere at 1445, we then strolled into town, all of 20 metres away, and found an Italian restaurant on the quayside road for a meal that evening. This turned out to be our worst and most expensive meal of the fortnight. Just after going to bed we had the most violent thunderstorms of the holiday but they cleared to leave a dull cloudy morning F1-2.

We departed Almere at 1005, crossing across the southern end of the Markermeer heading W. by N. towards Amsterdam and ignoring the buoyed channel, as we knew from the chart that enough water was available for us to do this. We locked into the Oranjesluizen in Amsterdam at 1140 and joined the North Sea Canal (Noordzeekanaal) enroute to Ijmuiden. This time we could see what we missed in the thunderstorm two weeks previously, although it was blowing F5-6 and sunny. Despite the lock keeper at Ijmuiden telling us there was a 10 minute wait, as soon as we prepared to moor we had the green light to go in. It was now 1405. We then proceeded to Ijmuiden Yacht Harbour, and, with difficulty, with the wind increasing to F8, moored up bows to between two posts at the stern at 1445. We arrived here on Thursday with the intention of leaving for Lowestoft the next day but the wind was still increasing, which made walking down the very long pontoons quite difficult.

As it was still F8 on Friday morning, with heavy showers we decided to take the bus and have a look at Haarlem. This is a delightful old town with a large square dominated by a 15th century church with a wooden lantern tower and on the western side the Gothic 13th century Town Hall where 2 weddings were taking place complete with horse drawn carriage

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Saturday dawned brighter with the wind now F6-7 westerly, but still not calm enough for our crossing, so again we took the bus, this time to Amsterdam. The buses are modern, clean and on time and at 10 euros return for nearly an hour each way, good value. The bus station was on the edge of the city and we had a nice walk in the sun over five canals to reach Dam Square in the centre. By the time we returned to the boats in the afternoon the wind had dropped to F4 so it was looking better for a crossing on Sunday. The boats were taken over to the fuel berth and topped up in anticipation.

Our alarms were set for 0500 Sunday morning and it was now F3 and clear so a 0600 start was agreed amongst the skippers. We let go and headed west out into a lumpy North Sea, but as the forecast for the next few days was not good we carried on.. Once clear of the coast, the seas started to calm a little and this continued to Lowestoft where we arrived at 1205 BST. It was a sure sign we were home. We radioed Lowestoft and were told we could not have a bridge opening until 1530 but to wait in the RN&SYC until called. We had all just moored up and were pounced on to pay a mooring charge when we were called to go through the bridge immediately, at least it saved the mooring charge. Next the railway bridge was still out of action, so the radar arches had to be lowered for the first time since leaving, despite passing through numerous bridges in Holland. We then had a 40 minute wait for Mutford Lock.

Our overall impression of Holland was a clean, efficient country, full of bicycle riding cheerful, helpful people. The houses all seemed to have large front windows with through lounges and high ceilings, the windows decorated with glassware or plants, and neat gardens. The same went for the blocks of flats as well. The bus drivers all wore suites and ties and carried brief cases for their cash and tickets.

Boats were everywhere, all spotless and shining, the finish on them was truly remarkable. The only unkempt boat I saw was a small yacht from Germany.

The majority of boats were made of steel, in all shapes and sizes, from the tiny miniature tugs to the largest sailing vessel. The bridges were nearly all manned and when you had to pay, the amount was displayed on a large board, the bridge-man held out a large rod with a clog dangling from the end for you to put your money in, so there was no stopping and the hold up to the traffic minimal. A few bridges were automatic and set off by a sensor as you approached, so slowing right down gave the road barriers chance to halt the traffic and the bridge time to open for you. Then sensors the other side noted your passage and closed the bridge. Just by the large number of commercial barges on the canals you can appreciate the enormous amount of freight that is kept off the roads. The transport system seemed geared up to efficiency with the roads into Amsterdam having a separate road for bicycles, one for buses and one for other traffic. To navigate the waterways a chart is essential and we found the ANWB/VVV Waterkaart to be very clear and detailed, although more than one is required if travelling any distance. They are available from newsagents, chandlers and garages. Diesel is cheaper from roadside/canalside filling stations than a marina.